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Here's an interesting article
that was published in the Seattle Post about claims being made about
honey being organic. We always tell folks that ask if our
honey is organic is that we find it hard to certify honey as bees
fly a 2 mile radius from their hives and that we'd have to own
miles of land to back up this claim.
Here's the article:
If it's made in America, it's
likely not organic
Wednesday,
December 31, 2008
Last updated
January 2, 2009 9:56 a.m. PT
By ANDREW
SCHNEIDER
P-I SENIOR CORRESPONDENT
When it comes to sizing up
the purity of the honey you buy, you're pretty much on your own.
You may be paying more for
honey labeled "certified organic" or feel reassured by the "USDA Grade A" seal,
but the truth is, there are few federal standards for honey, no government
certification and no consequences for making false claims.
For American-made honey, the
"organic" boast, experts say, is highly suspect. Beekeepers may be doing their
part, but honeybees have a foraging range of several miles, exposing them to
pesticides, fertilizers and pollutants on their way back to the hive.
And while they're required to
put the country of origin on the label -- a fact that could help guide wary
consumers -- some honey producers don't bother.
The head of one major honey
company advises caution and warns that in the United States, there's confusion
over label terminology and inconsistent enforcement of labeling laws.
"There is honey out there
that is illegally and purposely mislabeled, an adulterated product that is very
difficult to stop," said Dwight Stoller, chief executive of Kansas-based Golden
Heritage Foods. "There's probably not a lot, but it's still a real issue, and
consumers must be aware of that."
Unless shoppers buy honey
from a farmers market, where they can talk with the person who raised the bees
and bottled the honey, they're relying on what's printed on the label.
Major supermarkets offer
dozens of different brands, sizes, types and flavors of honey for sale.
Consumers might walk away with the finest-tasting, highest-quality honey there
is. Or they could end up with an unlabeled blend, adulterated with
impossible-to-detect cheap sweeteners or illegal antibiotics.
Part of this is because of
the government's failure to define what true honey is, but the blame also goes
to a handful of sleazy honey packers who buy and sell cut-rate foreign honey,
which usually has little problem slipping past overstretched customs inspectors.
The Seattle P-I surveyed 60
honey products commonly sold in the Pacific Northwest and found glowing praises
of healthfulness, sincere promises of quality and an endless selection of
advertising adjectives touting honey as the true elixir.
"100% Pure." "U.S. Grade A
Pure." "U.S. Grade 1." "America's Best Honey." "U.S. Choice." "Natural and
Pure."
The list goes on and on, but
it's mostly hype, experts say.
"If somebody puts 'U.S. Grade
A' on there, who's going to say it isn't?" said Harriet Behar, outreach
coordinator with the Midwest Organic and Sustainable Education Service. "There's
no enforcement, so people can say whatever they want."
The government takes a minor
role in the grading of honey. It's left entirely up to the industry.
Stoller was the only one
willing to discuss it openly. His company, with beekeeping roots going back 90
years, is one of the nation's largest suppliers of honey to retail outlets, the
food-processing industry and food service and restaurant-supply companies.
The government, he said,
doesn't have the resources to set and enforce needed standards. And that leads
to inaccurate or misleading labeling.
"Some packers just slap on
whatever they feel like," he said. "Whatever they believe will attract the
shopper to their product."
'Meaningless' claims
Where things really get
sticky is the selling of "organic" honey -- sold in some form by every major
chain.
Government, academic and
industry experts insist that U.S. organic honey is a myth. With rare exceptions,
this country is too developed and uses too many agricultural and industrial
chemicals to allow for the production of organic honey.
"Like other foods from
free-roaming, wild creatures, it is difficult -- and in some places impossible
-- to assure that honey bees have not come in contact with prohibited
substances, like pesticides," said Chuck Benbrook, chief scientist for the
Organic Center, a national advocacy group for the research and promotion of
organic food.
Recent U.S. Department of
Agriculture research, he said, shows that the average hive contains traces of
five or more pesticide residues.
Arthur Harvey of the
International Association of Organic Inspectors, who doubles as a Maine
beekeeper, said two factors must be considered when attempting to produce
organic honey: what the beekeeper puts into the hive, such as chemicals or
medication of any kind; and the location of the hive.
Can the bee fly to a place
that can be a source of potential contamination?
Harvey shares the concerns of
many that there are no real USDA standards for organic honey.
"What USDA has said is that
you can certify any product as organic as long as you comply with existing
regulation, but there are no regulations for honey," he said. "That means the
green USDA organic sticker on honey is meaningless."
Across the globe, there are
30 different, wide-ranging certification standards for organic honey, but
there's no way for inspectors to detect fraud, according to Harvey. The USDA, he
said, has never levied a fine for a violation of organic rules -- for honey or
any other product.
The Naturally Preferred honey
brand, widely distributed by the Kroger supermarket chain, has a USDA seal on
the front label. On the back, it boasts, "Certified Organic by the Washington
State Department of Agriculture."
Not so, say state officials.
The Washington State
Department of Agriculture doesn't certify honey "because we have no standards
for organic honey," said agency spokesman Mike Louisell.
"It shouldn't have WSDA on
its label," he said, "because we don't do it."
Jerry Hayes, chief of the
apiary section for the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services,
said there are no organic standards for honey in the United States because
honeybees forage in a 2 to 2 1/2-mile radius of their colonies.
"They're flying dust mops and
will pick up unbelievable amounts of environmental contaminants," Hayes said.
Unlike most states, Florida
has 15 full-time inspectors, a lab and other resources dedicated to ensuring
honey quality, and the state is poised to do what the federal government hasn't
-- pass a law defining what honey is.
Consumers stand to benefit,
said Dr. Marion Aller, who heads Florida's food safety division.
"This will make enforcement
of food safety easier," he said.
Aller said the honey industry
supports the move because it's increasingly concerned that products touted as
"pure" actually may be cut with other sugars or syrups.
Washington has no apiculture
inspectors, largely because there isn't the budget for it.
Claudia Coles, food safety
manager for the Agriculture Department, said her staff inspects Washington's
honey producers for sanitary practices only, as it does with 1,700 other
licensed food processors statewide.
"But the quality analysis of
honey -- determining what's really in the bottle -- isn't something we have
funding for," she said. "We struggle first with issues of E. coli, pathogens
that make people sick with acute illnesses."
Some U.S. producers say
they're confident offering certain foreign organic honeys to the public.
Mike Ingalls, president of
Pure Foods Inc. in Sultan, recently stood beside a stack of brown steel drums in
his warehouse. It's all marked "Organic Honey" and "Product of Argentina" -- and
each drum carries a sticker with a tracking number.
"I can use that number to
track the honey back to the supplier in Argentina and the specific beehives in
latitude and longitude and degrees, minutes and seconds," he said, "so I can
plot precisely where those hives were, and that they were at least six miles
away from any cultivated crop."
While Canada also produces
some authentic organic honey, Ingalls said that product is currently in short
supply so he's had to turn to South American imports.
As for the domestic variety,
he added: "We don't produce any organic honey in the United States."
Ultra-filtered honey
The industry hopes Florida's
proposed honey standard is adopted by other states and the USDA.
If so, it may provide law
enforcement the tools it needs to stop the flood of adulterated honey products.
Honey brokers and scientists
say that not only is Chinese honey being laundered in other countries to avoid
stiff U.S. tariffs and inspections, but also it's being sold as "malt
sweetener," "blended syrup" and "rice syrup."
Florida's inspectors say some
honey exported from China and India is put through an ultra-filtration process
that is meant to remove contaminants. Honey is heavily diluted with water, then
repeatedly boiled and filtered until it returns to a more natural consistency.
Those who have tested and tasted the filtered brew said the process can
completely remove all traces of contaminants, "including the color."
But there's a downside.
"In the process of taking out
the chemicals, they also take out all the good qualities of the honey. What the
consumer is left with is a very low-quality, sweet product -- but certainly not
honey," said Mark Brady, president of the American Honey Producers Association.
"If it is cheap and packers
can use it to blend into other dark, cheap honey to make it lighter in color and
taste a tad better, the ignorant general consumer is none the wiser. Caveat
emptor," he warned.
A warning consumers should be
getting, but often don't, is a disclosure of where their honey came from.
Federal law requires that the
country of origin be printed on food labels, but many companies offer no clue.
Nondisclosing companies range
from small producers, such as Haggen Honey, distributed from Bellingham, and
Anna's Honey, distributed by Seattle Gourmet Foods, to national distributors
such as Target and Wal-Mart.
A Target spokeswoman wouldn't
disclose where the discount retailer's honey came from. But she said the Market
Pantry Grade A honey "meets all USDA and FDA inspection standards."
Linda Brown Blakley, a
Wal-Mart senior spokeswoman, said it's her "understanding" that "if the honey is
produced domestically, country of origin need not be included on the label."
However, USDA says honey is
considered a "perishable agricultural commodity" and country of origin is
required.
The label on Heins Organic
Trail Honey, packaged by Pure Foods, errs on the side of overdisclosure, listing
five countries of origin: U.S., Canada, China, Argentina and Australia. Ingalls,
however, said that, too, isn't exactly right: He no longer imports from China
and is just using up old labels.
'Tread
carefully'
Besides its certified organic
claims, Kroger's Naturally Preferred honey also carries the Good Housekeeping
Seal of Approval.
That puzzles honey experts
such as Behar.
"I don't know how Good
Housekeeping can do this. They don't know anything about honey standards," she
said.
Good Housekeeping -- a
magazine owned by The Hearst Corp., the P-I's parent company -- confirmed that,
in 2005, Naturally Preferred honey qualified for the seal, a status that expired
last month.
A magazine spokesperson said
food products considered for the seal of approval are evaluated for nutritional
value based on "federal, standard guidelines."
The USDA, however, said it
doesn't have such standards for honey.
Consumer advocates warn
shoppers not to put too much stock in seals of approval -- or even claims that
the supermarket product with "honey" in the name actually contains any.
Pringles' Honey Buttered
Wheat Stix, for example, doesn't list honey among its 30-plus ingredients.
A company representative said
the snack is made in Thailand and contains artificial honey flavoring, not real
honey. "We call it 'honey butter' because that's what it tastes like," she said.
Honey Graham Crackers do
contain honey -- it's on the ingredient list after sugar and high-fructose corn
syrup.
Ditto for Nabisco's Honey
Maid Grahams and 16 other brands of "honey" crackers, snacks and cereals the P-I
inspected.
Paul van Westendorp, the
provincial apiculturist for British Columbia's Ministry of Agriculture, said
that in Canada, there are renewed calls to tighten up the regulations of honey
labeling.
"The erosion of the label
'honey' has been going on for decades and beekeepers have often been frustrated
by the big food processors such as General Mills, Kellogg's and many others for
using honey in their product-line advertising while the product contains little
or no honey," he said.
"Is the consumer getting
cheated? That depends entirely on what the label says. The difference, of
course, is that this type of product is typically sold to the ... uninformed
consumer."
That practice is commonplace,
said Diane Dunaway, who has studied honey marketing and is editor of Bee-scene
magazine, produced for Canadian beekeepers in British Columbia and elsewhere.
"It's come down to consumers
taking the time to read the ingredients list on the product label versus the
marketing text," she said.
"The folks who make Pringles
aren't the first to exploit the health-inspiring word 'honey' for profit.
Companies like these and other food processors are relying on the dumbing down
of consumer awareness," Dunaway said.
As warm and cuddly as the
honeybee is to Madison Avenue, she warned food processors to tread carefully.
"Hell hath no fury like a
soccer mom scorned!"
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